This series is about my adventures hiking, cycling, mountain biking and motorcycling. Somehow I always find unexpected and unusual treasures on my journeys... or they find me.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Trip to Hunstanton and the Life Boat pub



Today's destination is the Life Boat Inn in Thornham and a visit to the beach at Hunstanton. Check out the cool place names I saw on the way. King's Lynn is especially interesting because it's where the Pilgrims launched and probably where my really, really old armchair is from.




The Life Boat Inn and Pub is located on the North Sea near a wide inlet named The Wash.

The original part of the inn and pub (pictured above) was built in the 16th century with perhaps a few additions and upgrades since. I loved how the low ceilings gave each room weight and the worn and warped floorboards made it tough to walk straight. Signs above each door and passageways warn, "Duck and/or Grouse”. Anyone over five feet tall will get a good smack on the head if they don't duck.



Everyone was happy with their lunch except one person, who will remain nameless. The Ploughman’s lunch turned out to be the award-winning meal (photo above) which Win and Val were clever enough to order. The huge plates were weighed down with no less than a pound of cheese which Bob eyed furiously during the entire meal, much to everyone's disapproval. Included was a cottage loaf, salad, Branston pickle, and apple and pickled onion.



Sadly, Bob had made a disastrous mistake by ordering the Underwhelming Club Sandwich (above) which he quickly demolished and began scoping out everyone else's lunch. When he began making pathetic whining noises Win was forced to relent and give him most of her cheddar cheese thus bringing us all peace and quiet for a short time.



I had an interesting meal of curried sweet potatoes, creme fraiche, rice pilaf and toasted rocket. I was hungry, but ambivalent about the meal. I might be craving tofu.



The afternoon mitigation walk is essential on this trip. The vast troughs of food we consume is terrifying. I'm guessing today's walk will burn off at least five percent of the calories. We drove to Hunstanton to the infamous cold and windy beach locals call Sunny Hunny. This is a popular destination drawing visitors from miles around despite its reputation as a cold, windy, sandblasted experience. Today was calm, sunny, warm and splendid, inspiring my complete skepticism about the miserable Palin family visits of the past.



Cliffs full off shell fossils line the beach and rocky tidepools proved worthy hiding spots for crabs (photo credit to Bob, bravery credit to me)



At the entry to the beach path was this sign for the north end of Peddars Way, the walking path that runs 46 miles from Tethford to the south, through Swaffham and up to this point. I'd love to walk the whole length... but only if it avoids sections of roadway. The drivers here are insane.



After the beach walk we went to the cafĂ© at the end of the carpark and Larry gleefully bought this sausage roll. It's nothing more or less than a lump of sausage meat rolled up in puff pastry and baked. Yes, it is really as disgusting as it sounds. Bob ate his fair share, and noted, “I‘ve had much better. Mum and Valerie make them with real sausage and pie pastry". If he was hinting, no one noticed."




On the way home I saw this wattle fence. They’re everywhere.

Tomorrow is the big 80th birthday bash for Win, then I'm headed to the East coast to see what's there. Meanwhile, I am still on the search for a stout beer in this county. So far I haven't found one and am resorting to drinking Aspall cider (or cyder as it's sometimes spelled). The cider is pretty darn good and goes with just about everything. It reminds me of a neighbor's homemade cider in Maine. When I was a kid, Albert Sewell made some strong cider from his own apples. It was fizzy, tart and had a bite.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

More pubs, more sights




Yesterday we drove to West Acre, a tiny town a few miles north of Swaffham. From what I could see the town consisted of the Stag pub (pictured above), a church and a few houses. Really, what else does a town need?



Decor inside the Stag can only be described as, "free coasters we've received from our beer suppliers". The bartender owns the place and lives upstairs in an unheated apartment with her husband. Parking is available in the back for cars... and horses. That center tap handle label is for Tydd Steam's Piston Bob Ale. I thought it was too bitter, Bob pronounced it great and had a second pint. I liked the Beartown Brewery Kodiak Gold (on the right) better. But sadly, I have yet to find any Stouts in an English pub this trip. The quest continues!



Once again, we consumed vast quantities of food. In a rare vote of vegetarian solidarity Bob ordered a cheddar and pickle sandwich so he could trade me for half of my roasted pepper and tart goat cheese sandwich. "Pickle" is commercially sold as Branston Pickle, a sweet, sour, chutney-like dark preserve. We have nothing like it in the US.

This is everyday, average "pub" food. It is so good it will make you weep with frustration at the mere thought of ever forcing down another mediocre meal at McFranchise.




After lunch back we drove back to Swaffham and I wandered around for a couple hours. Here is the Cornhall, where "corn" was traded in this historic market square. They didn't actually trade corn because corn is called maize here and is grown for animal feed. Rather, they call wheat "corn". Get it? I'm not sure I do. Pictured below, the sign on the side of this building describes "corn" as also being used for "social gatherings and entertainment". "Corn", an amazing combination of social and monetary capital.






Here's a shop sign you don't see too often in the States (above).




"The Red Lion pub is closed," Bob told me. I may have to test his theory later this week. Evidently they're serving drinks today, but I'm still stuffed from lunch.

We have now tried three of the six pubs in Swaffham: The George, The Horse and Groom and The Norfolk Hero ( which sports a hunk of copper from Nelson's "Victory" that I toured last trip to England. Nelson was a local boy and has pub, beers and hotels named after him.)

Swaffham pubs I still need to visit: The Greyhound, Red Lion and Lydney House (which elicits this reaction each time I mention it):



Truth be told, this is the face you see whenever a phone is in his hand.



Win tells me her garden has gone off. Uh-huh. This fuschia under her kitchen window has completely gone off, leaving only these pathetic blooms.

Tomorrow is a trip to the north coast. The forecast is sunny and warm. I'm packing two jackets, a raincoat and warm gloves.

Followers