Yesterday we drove to West Acre, a tiny town a few miles north of Swaffham. From what I could see the town consisted of the Stag pub (pictured above), a church and a few houses. Really, what else does a town need?
Decor inside the Stag can only be described as, "free coasters we've received from our beer suppliers". The bartender owns the place and lives upstairs in an unheated apartment with her husband. Parking is available in the back for cars... and horses. That center tap handle label is for Tydd Steam's Piston Bob Ale. I thought it was too bitter, Bob pronounced it great and had a second pint. I liked the Beartown Brewery Kodiak Gold (on the right) better. But sadly, I have yet to find any Stouts in an English pub this trip. The quest continues!
Once again, we consumed vast quantities of food. In a rare vote of vegetarian solidarity Bob ordered a cheddar and pickle sandwich so he could trade me for half of my roasted pepper and tart goat cheese sandwich. "Pickle" is commercially sold as Branston Pickle, a sweet, sour, chutney-like dark preserve. We have nothing like it in the US.
This is everyday, average "pub" food. It is so good it will make you weep with frustration at the mere thought of ever forcing down another mediocre meal at McFranchise.
After lunch back we drove back to Swaffham and I wandered around for a couple hours. Here is the Cornhall, where "corn" was traded in this historic market square. They didn't actually trade corn because corn is called maize here and is grown for animal feed. Rather, they call wheat "corn". Get it? I'm not sure I do. Pictured below, the sign on the side of this building describes "corn" as also being used for "social gatherings and entertainment". "Corn", an amazing combination of social and monetary capital.
Here's a shop sign you don't see too often in the States (above).
"The Red Lion pub is closed," Bob told me. I may have to test his theory later this week. Evidently they're serving drinks today, but I'm still stuffed from lunch.
We have now tried three of the six pubs in Swaffham: The George, The Horse and Groom and The Norfolk Hero ( which sports a hunk of copper from Nelson's "Victory" that I toured last trip to England. Nelson was a local boy and has pub, beers and hotels named after him.)
Swaffham pubs I still need to visit: The Greyhound, Red Lion and Lydney House (which elicits this reaction each time I mention it):
Truth be told, this is the face you see whenever a phone is in his hand.
Win tells me her garden has gone off. Uh-huh. This fuschia under her kitchen window has completely gone off, leaving only these pathetic blooms.
Tomorrow is a trip to the north coast. The forecast is sunny and warm. I'm packing two jackets, a raincoat and warm gloves.
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